Keep It Classic, Play It Cool

A dress shirt should make you look good and flatter the body you've worked hard to build—not hide it with a tent. Darlene DeAndrade, an expert tailor in Manhattan, explains how to find the right fit.

When your shirt is completely buttoned, you should be able to stick one or two fingers in your collar comfortably. If you can turn your head without choking, it's a good fit.

The seam should sit at the shoulder; it can be half an inch over, but never under. If it's more than half an inch over, the body may be too loose or boxy. Too much under and the armhole will be uncomfortable.

A collar or cuff that does not fit cannot be altered. A shirt body can be taken in, but never let out.

You should be able to pinch an inch of fabric on each side of your body. Any more and the fit will be too loose. Look for darting (that sewn-in shaping), which indicates a slimmer fit. The shirt should fall at least 7 inches below your waist; you should be able to lift your arms without the shirt coming untucked.

A shirt cuff should sit 1 to 11/2 inches above your thumb joint. If you can slide your hand through a cuff without unbuttoning it, the cuff's probably too big.

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